Holy Toledo!

Posted by Lee in Spain, Travel and tagged with , , , , ,

“Holy Toledo!”  Have you ever wondered how that saying came into being?  I’ve always thought it had something to do with Toledo, Ohio, in the United States (although I’m not sure why) – and there’s one school of thought that does think that. But having just been on a trip to Toledo, Spain, I reckon it’s a truly literal saying. Toledo is definitely a city steeped in religious symbolism.

DSC_0601Spain may be constitutionally a secular society, but the reality is that more than 70 per cent of the population is Catholic. But as any tour of Spain will teach you, there’s been a strong Muslim, Jewish and Moorish influence on the country over the course of its diverse history, and many religious buildings have changed hands (or denominations) over the centuries. Toledo is no exception.

The sepia-toned World Heritage-listed town  sits high above the River Tagus, and is dominated by the 16th century Alcazar fortress. Toledo was Spain’s capital until 1561, when Philip II moved it to Madrid.

Toledo is an attractive city, about 45 minutes drive south of Madrid, and well worth a day trip. Be prepared for some serious walking, as that’s the best way to discover the cobblestone alleys and back streets of the Old Town.

After a quick lunch – one of the best tapas meals I had while in Spain – in a little bar just off the main square, we set off to check out some of the city’s historic attractions, including the 13th century Gothic cathedral, and in the Jewish Quarter, Spain’s oldest synagogue, dating back to the 12th century, now owned by the Catholic Church.

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A Glass Half Full travelled to Spain as a guest of Globus.

Moments in Madrid

Posted by Lee in Spain, Travel and tagged with , , , , , ,

Such is the nature of my job – and of bus tours – my first trip to Spain’s capital was all too brief.  Over nine days, my “Best of Spain” tour will cover seven cities so there’s only really one full day to “discover” Madrid.

I arrived a day early, in order to recover a little from the 34 hour journey from my Brisbane home to my Madrid hotel.  That’s including connection times in Singapore and Dubai…but still, it’s a long and tiring haul.

DSC_0982I spent the first day wandering the city’s historic centre. A short Metro ride from the hotel and I was in Plaza Mayor, dodging buskers and spruikers but enjoying the feeling of finally getting to this lovely city. I also squeezed my way through the packed Mercardo de San Miguel, local “markets” where delectable tapa dishes are washed down with crisp wines by a mix of fashionistas, business people and tourists. It’s buzzing and bustling and filled with the aroma of good food. In the streets, too, I pop in and out of shops selling an array of cured meats, cheeses and other delicacies.

The next day, when my tour group had all arrived, we had a quick tour of the city aboard the bus and spent a couple of hours at the Prado Museum.  If you are a fan of European art, this is the place to find some of the best.  As I wandered, still in something of a jetlag haze, behind our local guide Angie, I gazed on the highlights of the permanent collection, which includes big names such as Goya, Rembrandt, Rubens, Titian, Caravaggio and of course El Greco.

Seeing so little of the city, of course, gives me an incentive to return one day. Meanwhile, here are a few photos from my brief stop in Madrid.

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A Glass Half Full travelled to Spain as a guest of Globus.

Gifts & gimmicks…as I head to Spain

Posted by Lee in Travel Writing and tagged with , ,

Travel writers are often on the receiving end of small gifts and gimmicks from tourist boards and marketing companies plugging a particular destination.

Sometimes these can be useful travel aids – things like adapter plugs or alarm clocks – all branded of course. Over the years I’ve been given jackets, scarves, gloves, beanies and sun-caps, carry-0n wheelie bags (usually at conferences), all manner of satchels, books, pens, notebooks, watches, toiletries, key-rings….again, mostly emblazoned with the giver’s logo.  Sometimes, especially in the case of the cold-weather gear, it’s the host’s way of ensuring we are properly equipped and comfortable!

Some are not so useful, but rather a gimmick designed to make an impact or say something about the place. To make us remember them, talk about them…even if we’ve not been there. These are usually the things handed out at promotional events. Like the miniature rolling pin that the Austrian National Tourist Board sent out with an invitation to a strudel-making class earlier this year (then there was the apron to bring home). Or the snorkel that once arrived in the post, along with an invitation to a lunch hosted by Queensland’s Tourism Whitsundays.  Soft toys, too – a lovely squishy orangutan has lived in my office for many years, courtesy of a Borneo promotion, and I also remember some penguins from Phillip Island in Victoria that went to appreciative small people.

Some of the less useful things (really, how many caps does one woman need?) find their way into the charity bag, but others have been doing good service in my household for years.

DSC_0904This week, as I prepare for a trip to Spain with tour company Globus, a parcel arrived along with my tickets and itinerary.  In it was a branded Globus strap for my suitcase, and a smallish zipped  satchel. I guessed more documents, and laughed out loud when I opened it to find a miniature cheeseboard, along with cheese knife, pate knife, two forks and a corkscrew bottle-opener!  Not the sort of thing to toss in my carry-on luggage, but certainly useful.

Yes…Spain.  The Best of Spain, according to Globus.  Madrid, Seville, Granada, Valencia and Barcelona.  All new territory for me.  Once, when I was young, I went to the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona.  Later, I went back to northern Spain to lounge on the beach at San Sebastian. But that has been the extent of my Spanish experience.  This time, I’m looking forward to exploring the big cities on assignment for Australian travel magazine Get Up & Go.

I’ll be blogging whenever I can…

Straddie re-visited

Posted by Lee in Australia, Travel and tagged with , , , ,

Sometimes we don’t have to go far from home to find somewhere special.  In my case, a few days away was enough to remind me of that.  It was 25 years since I had last been to North Stradbroke Island, which lies off the coast of south-east Queensland, less than two hours by public transport (bus, train and ferry) from my home in Brisbane.

“Straddie”, as Australians affectionately call it, holds a place in many Queenslanders’ hearts. Renowned for its long stretches of beach, it is a place that many people go to camp. Indeed, that was what I did on my last visit all those years ago, but I’m happy to say that this time around my accommodations were much more comfortable.

To get there, take a ferry – we took the Big Red Cat – or a water taxi across a stretch of Moreton Bay. It takes about 45 minutes on the ferry, and you can take your car with you too.

There are three main settlements, Point Lookout, Dunwich and Amity, and a population of around 2000 (boosted hugely during summer – when it can reach up around 35,000 – and other holiday times). We stayed at Point Lookout, arriving in the late afternoon, in time to watch the sunset from the balcony of the house in which we were staying.  Claytons is one of a group of privately owned holiday houses which are available for rent on Straddie.  Many of them are impressively large, with wonderful views, and would be great for families or groups of friends.

Dinner was at the Stradbroke Island Beach Hotel, a place I was interested to see, as someone who writes frequently about pubs.  I had heard and read much over the years about the demolition of the old pub which had stood on the hill at Point Lookout since 1962, and subsequent long running battle by the locals to stop the plans for its replacement. After about seven years of objections and several court cases, the old pub was pulled down in 2006.  Sadly, the iconic old “Straddie Pub” has been replaced by a sterile, stone and stainless steel look building, albeit one that has all mod-cons including a day spa and accommodation.  But it is shockingly short on atmosphere, and not a pub you are likely to write home about.

Overnight, it rained. This put a definite dampener on our day’s planned activity – sand-boarding on the massive dunes which are a feature of this, the second largest sand island in the world (after Queensland’s Fraser Island). Wet sand is not made for sliding, so our host for the day “Barefoot Dave” of Straddie Eco & Adventure Tours quickly devised another plan. We piled into Dave’s 4WD and set off to explore the island.

Stradbroke Island is not the only place in Australia where 4WDs are allowed to drive on the beach, but I must admit, I’m not a fan of the practice. You need a permit to do so, and it’s an easy way for campers to get to some of the beach camping spots, but it somehow – for me, anyway – detracts from the beauty of the long unbroken stretches of sand. Main Beach runs for 32kms, and is a popular spot for surfers and swimmers, with big swells, powerful waves and spectacular views from the headland. Lifeguards patrol the beach next to the Surf Lifesaving Club.

We stop for lunch, a swim (for the brave – it’s too cold for me!) and a walk on the 4.6km long Flinders Beach, where Dave throws some snags on his gas barbecue. Also on the day’s itinerary is Brown Lake, a tannin-stained freshwater lake that is part of a waterway system regarded as one of the world’s most ecologically important wetlands.

When the rest of my weekend companions head back to the faster pace of the mainland, I stay on for an extra night with friends who are smart enough to live in this peaceful spot. The next morning, I take the North Gorge Walk.  The boardwalk path starts on the cliff-top opposite the Oceanic Gelati Shop and Fishes Cafe, and is bordered on one side by bushland, and on the other by the rugged headland.  There are viewing platforms at some of the most scenic spots, bench seats at others.  A highlight is the rock formation called the Blow Hole. Depending on your pace, the walk can take anywhere from about 30 minutes to several hours.

This is also a great place for dolphin-spotting; I am just a few weeks too early for the annual parade of humpback whales which pass by on their migration from Antarctica to warmer northern waters around the Great Barrier Reef to calve. Point Lookout’s headland – at about 35 metres above sea level – is one of the world’s best land-based whale-watching spots.  Head there between late May/early June and November and you may see some of the 5000 majestic creatures who pass this way. Take binoculars with you, and a long lens for your camera, if you have one.

As I reluctantly take the water taxi back to Cleveland and the train back to the city, I make a promise to myself. It won’t be another 25 years before my next visit. Straddie, I’ll be back.

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A Glass Half Full travelled to North Stradbroke Island as a guest of Tourism & Events Queensland.

Find me on Facebook

Posted by Lee in Blogging, Travel Writing and tagged with , ,

I love Facebook. There, I said it. I know that not everyone likes it; it’s a time-waster, it’s an invasion of privacy…I’ve heard all those things. But despite that, I love it. It connects me with friends all over the world in a way that snail mail was never able to, and I get a lot of fun out of it.  I don’t post photos of my dinner (often), or share deep and meaningful messages from other websites, but I use it often to comment on what’s happening in my life.  I was a slow starter, but now I am a real fan.

But after about four years on Facebook, I’ve decided it’s time to split my professional and personal lives. I do believe that personal things should be private, so I have always refused friend requests from people I don’t know personally. Then I learned how to use the “public” and “friends only” post selection, and have a few “subscribers” who see only those public posts. But now, I need a more professional place for my work-related posts, so I’ve created a new page called Lee Mylne – Travel Journalist.

So if you’re a follower of this blog, and also on Facebook, perhaps you’d like to “like” that page too. You’ll find more about my travels and my work and my thoughts about journalism, travel writing and travel in general…in a different form to what you read here.

I’m pretty proud of this whale-tail shot, so I’ve used it as the header for my Facebook page. Hope to see you there, as well as here!

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Courage and creativity…it’s a ‘deadly’ combination

Posted by Lee in Australia, Events, Travel and tagged with , , , , , , , ,

Visitors to Australia may see little of its indigenous culture, unless they seek it out or include Central Australia on their itinerary. An Aboriginal busker playing didgeridoo on a city street, or some art works on a gallery wall may be the extent of it otherwise.

They may hear a couple of phrases that mean little to them: “the reconciliation movement” and “the stolen generations”.  Both are issues which – if investigated – could give them a new insight into Australia.

The Stolen Generations are Aboriginal children who were removed from their parents by government officials and placed in orphanages, children’s homes or church missions in the 1920s.  Some have never found their parents; for others death intervened before reunion was possible.

This was not the only indignity Aborigines have suffered since white settlement. When the British arrived to settle this so-called terra nullius (empty land) in the late 1700s, they brought diseases such as smallpox with them – with devastating effect for the Aborigines. Many Aborigines died during conflict with the settlers, and by the early 1900s, the Aboriginal people were a dying race, the survivors mostly living on government-run reserves or in missions. Some became fringe dwellers on the outskirts of urban areas, while others eked out livings in rural and outback Australia.

They could no longer live as they had done for tens of thousands of years, but neither could they become equals in the society that had taken their land.  It was not until 1962 that Aboriginal people were given the right to hold citizenship or vote in Australia and only in 1992 that the High Court of Australia expunged the concept of terra nullius and acknowledged the pre-existing rights of indigenous Australians.

Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders, from the far north of Queensland, are the most disadvantaged people in Australian society today, as a direct result of colonisation, dispossession, and the lack of rights and opportunities given to other citizens.

According to a report released last week by the Australian Institute of Criminology into Aboriginal deaths in custody,  Indigenous people are 15 times more likely than other Australians to go to prison.  They also have much lower life expectancy and higher birth mortality. In short, a cycle of poverty, poor health and limited education has created for them a lifestyle far removed from that of most other Australians.

This week (May 27-June 3) is National Reconciliation Week in Australia. Held since 1998, the week is preceded by National Sorry Day (May 26) when Australians of all backgrounds march in parades and hold other events around the country to honour the Stolen Generations. The first act to be carried out by the Labor Government following its election victory in 2007 was to officially apologise to the Stolen Generations. Aboriginal people are still not recognised in the Australian Constitution.

The reconciliation movement aims to promote an appreciation of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander cultures and achievements and of the unique position they hold as the indigenous peoples of Australia to the wider Australian community, and to build respectful relationships between Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples and other Australians, and to create a fair and equal society.

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Actor Ursula Yovich in the title role of Mother Courage, the Queensland Theatre Company’s Indigenous adaptation of the Brecht classic. (Images courtesy QTC)

So it was fitting last night to be present at the opening night performance in Brisbane of a unique adaptation of Bertolt Brecht’s classic morality tale, Mother Courage & Her Children, by the Queensland Theatre Company.  With an all-Indigenous cast, this fresh look at Brecht’s famous play is woven with the modern themes of the Stolen Generation, land ownership, and the impact of mining on Australia.

Instead of Europe’s Thirty Years’ War of the 1600s, this is a futuristic setting, a post-apocalyptic continent ravaged by conflict between warring miners. Adapted by QTC artistic director Wesley Enoch (the first Indigenous person to run a major theatre company in Australia) and translator Paula Nazarski, it stars the luminous Ursula Yovich as Mother Courage, as she does her best for her children travelling the outback in a beat-up, broken-down old truck.

If it all sounds a bit heavy…well, it is.  But the dark themes are lightened by comedic moments, by song, by the haunting sound of the didgeridoo and by stunning performances from a cast of 10. It helps if you take some time before the performance for a quick study of the glossary of Indigenous words and colloquialisms in the program; it was soon obvious that the Aboriginal members of the audience were enjoying jokes we migaloo (white people) were missing!

This is a production which showcases some of Australia’s finest – or should I say, deadliest -  Indigenous talents.

Mother Courage & Her Children is at the Playhouse, Queensland Performing Arts Centre, Brisbane until June 6.

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A tale of three bridges

Posted by Lee in Australia, New Zealand, Travel and tagged with , , , , , , , ,

Once upon a time, I held a record, of  sorts.  For a few days in 2005, I was the first woman in the world to have climbed all three of the world’s legally climb-able bridges.

I was told this when I climbed the third of those bridges to open to climbers, Brisbane’s beautiful sweeping Story Bridge.  I was doing a “preview” climb with a media group before the bridge climb officially opened – and I was the only woman in the group.  As I had previously “climbed”  the Sydney and Auckland harbour bridges, it seemed I’d made my mark.  Ah…but records are made to be toppled and within days the bridge climb was open and the tourists were pouring in. Among them, I’m sure, were other women eager to tick off their third bridge!

Story Bridge Adventure Climb, Brisbane, 2013

Story Bridge Adventure Climb, Brisbane, 2013

I did the Story Bridge Adventure Climb again recently. It was the perfect day for it: clear blue skies, but not too hot and sticky.

I’ve always loved this bridge. It reminds me of a giant Meccano construction, and has quite different look to the arching Sydney and Auckland bridges.

Despite a latent fear of heights – which seems to reduce the older I get – I’ve tackled all three bridge climbs secure in the knowledge that I simply can’t fall off.   In all three, climbers are secured to the bridge the whole way, and there’s so much to see and hear that your mind is taken off the height.

While there are similarities between the bridgeclimb experiences – the grey jumpsuits so we blend with the background, the safety harnesses and yes, the breathalyser before we set out (don’t even think about a tipple to steady the nerves, or a big night out on the eve of your climb) – each one is quite different.

The Sydney and Auckland bridges span stunning harbours, while Brisbane’s Story Bridge crosses the winding brown Brisbane River, with views across the city to Moreton Bay in the east and the green hills of the D’Aguilar Ranges to the west.

Below, traffic roars.  Your guide explains the history of the bridge, and of the city and when you reach the top of your climb points out the various landmarks and tells some interesting stories. For example, the Story Bridge is the largest steel bridge designed, fabricated and constructed in Australia by Australians.  It is named for John Story, a senior public servant who advocated strongly for its construction. The road which crosses it, the Bradfield Highway, is named for the engineer who designed it and oversaw the construction, and is the shortest highway in Australia.

Bridge Climb Sydney, 2001

Bridge Climb Sydney, 2001

I’ve climbed the Sydney Harbour Bridge twice.  Once on a perfect day in 2001, and another time on a very cold winter night, which for me at least took away some of the delight in the illuminated city views.

Auckland Bridge Climb, 2001

Auckland Bridge Climb, 2001

The Auckland Bridge Climb is a different experience again. One of the most interesting moments was when we walked under the traffic level on one of what are affectionately known as the “Nippon clip-ons” (Japanese-made extensions to the bridge which added lanes to each side after the original construction in 1959). You can now also bungy-jump from the bridge – but I will leave that to others! I may be brave enough to climb, but bungy I will not!

Shimmying in Sydney

Posted by Lee in Australia, Humour, Travel and tagged with , , , , , , , ,

DSC_0786Tinkling coins are the sign you’re doing it right.  That’s the first thing I learn at my first bellydancing class.  The coin belt tied around my hips is my guide to successful shimmying.

Welcome to belly-dancing 101. I’m at Amera’s Palace Bellydance Boutique in the Sydney suburb of Marrickville, dragged along to join my friend Julie at her regular bellydancing lesson.  I’m intrigued but self-conscious, and try to wriggle out of it by declaring that I don’t have the costume.

Lesson #2 is that for this lesson I don’t need the full get-up that you might see at a bellydance performance. Leggings or tights and a t-shirt will be perfectly acceptable.  There’s not a belly to be seen, not even that of our teacher, Jamil, who’s in black shorts and singlet. Slung around his hips is a black scarf adorned with dozens of small gold coins (and a few sequins). Yes, my bellydancing teacher is a man.

While we wait for the class to start, I press my nose against the glass door of the boutique (closed on Sundays) and check out the glittering costumes that are on display.

None of it is what I’ve expected.  We gather in a mirrored dance studio, nine women in an assortment of exercise gear and with a range of skills. I’m not the only first-timer, but as the class progresses its clear to me that I am definitely the most unco-ordinated.

The class begins with some yoga-like exercises and for a while I think I might be able to do this.  Then we go over some basic shimmy moves. Jamil has a couple of good analogies. “Imagine that you’re using your hip to close a car door,” he says. Yes, we’ve all done that!  Then: “Imagine you’re standing between two expensive cars, both owned by your ex – he’s won the lotto since you were together – and try to scratch both cars with your coin belt”.  A titter ripples around the room, then we bump and shimmy again.

Jamil is a noted dancer, who’s been learning since he was five years old. He’s one of the few male Arabian dancers around, and is full of energy, making the class lots of fun. Later, I have a look on YouTube for video of his performance style.

Once things speed up, and I’m required to keep up with the movements my brain can’t cope and I remember why my several attempts at aerobics classes in the dim distant past were doomed to failure.

I simply can’t keep up.  I can’t mentally process the moves Jamil is making in mirror image and tell my body to make them in time with everyone else.  The music moves on without me.

At the end of an hour, I’m frustrated my inability to keep up (unlike the other first-timers, who all look like they’ve been doing it for years).

But as I head down the stairs, I console myself with the thought that at least I have hips to shimmy…

Starting in Sydney

Posted by Lee in Australia, Travel, Travel Writing and tagged with , , , , , , , ,
Sydney Opera House

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Harbour must rank as one of the most beautiful in the world. And on a sunny day, with blue skies, there are few better ways to appreciate it than by getting out on the water. I did that last weekend, visiting for a few days to start on research for my new Frommer’s guide to Australia.

Taking the ferry to Cockatoo Island, I reveled in this lovely waterway and was rewarded after a day of sightseeing with a spectacular blood-red sunset as I waited for the return ferry to Circular Quay. Sydney is alive and energetic at any time, but on a sunny weekend the tourists and locals come out to play and being in the centre of the city is great fun. It’s not a city I’d like to live in (unless I was wealthy enough for one of those harbourside mansions) but I love to visit.

Those who read this blog regularly will know that my next big book project is a new and updated version of Frommer’s Australia, one that I’ll be working on for the next few months – and blogging about as well from time to time. After writing about the reported demise of the Frommer’s brand, it was a thrill to find out that Arthur Frommer and his daughter Pauline – both still heavily involved in travel writing and broadcasting, despite selling the Frommer’s brand some years ago – had bought back their brand and intended to revive the guide books.  And through the power of social media, after my blog post was re-tweeted by a number of people, I had a call from Pauline Frommer to ask me to write the Australia guide. How exciting is that?

So off to Sydney I went for the first stage of research.  Here are a few images from my visit.

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for mothers everywhere

Posted by Lee in Photography, Travel and tagged with , , ,

Twenty-five years ago, I discovered what it was like to be a mother. Holding my first baby, a beautiful girl with a shock of spiky black hair, I was filled with those indescribable emotions that the first hours of parenthood bring. Amazement that I had helped create this child, overwhelming love, and inexplicable fear that something terrible would take this new love of my life away.

Eighteen months later, the emotions replicated themselves as my heart expanded to make room for the new arrival, an equally beautiful – but so different – second daughter.

In my travels, I have seen mothers all over the world doing their best for their children. Working, cooking, feeding, cuddling, teaching…and most of all, just loving them. We are all the same, no matter where we live.

Mother’s Day is held at different times of the year, depending on where you live. In Australia and New Zealand it is today, the second Sunday in May. In tribute to mothers everywhere, take a look at my gallery of mothers. Happy Mother’s Day.

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